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Does Michelin matter anymore?

September 2018

 

Michelin image.jpg

“The Michelin Guide has been around for an astonishing 118 years. But, has it run its course?”


The Michelin Guide returns later today, but it’s not been the best year for the guide. With chefs giving stars back and politely requesting inspectors don’t enter their premises, it begs the question: does Michelin matter for chefs or consumers anymore?

Before we get to that rather big question, here’s a quick run through of what’s been going on.

 

A recent guide to the Guide

Last September, Le Suquet restaurant in southern France was the first restaurant in history to have itself removed from the Michelin Guide. It had held an incredible three Michelin stars for 18 years, but chef Sebastien Bras said enough is enough, and requested to be removed. He found the pressure of retaining stars was too great and held him and his team back from serving the food they really wanted to.

More recently, The Checkers in Montgomery, Powys, also handed back their one star, which it’s held since 2011. Their reasoning was to “put family first” after “years juggling the kids with working split shifts and late hours”.

And then there’s Marco Pierre White – the original rock star chef who continues to own the news. The enigmatic chef told an Asian lifestyle website “I don’t need Michelin and they don’t need me”. He’s stated that the Michelin Guide does not have permission to visit and inspect his new Singapore restaurant, The English House.

 

Why are chefs turning their backs?

So, it’s been a tumultuous year for the Guide, which for so long has been considered the pinnacle of restaurant reviews worldwide. It’s famed for high standards, incredible expectations and brutal honesty. And therein lies the problem.

Getting a star is still an exciting achievement for any restaurant and head chef. But retaining it becomes as big a part of the job as pleasing customers. An inspection can happen at any time, meaning all-year round, a restaurant has to tick the many boxes that Michelin is looking out for.

Not knowing when a restaurant could be reviewed makes trying out something new an even more terrifying ordeal. What if the inspectors arrive on the day a new menu is introduced, and it’s just not quite right? The star’s gone.

So, it’s best to just stick with what you do.

 

Does the Guide take everything into account?

The judging criteria used by inspectors is a mystery to most. In a recent tweet, Michelin said that it’s the food on the plate that’s judged, which is why street food vendors have an equal chance of winning a star.

In a way, this is great news. The food is what matters most and great food deserves praise, wherever it’s from and however it’s served. But, speak to any chef and you can be sure that it’s not all they care about. Food is experiential, more so than ever. The décor, the feel, the atmosphere, the restaurant as a whole, they all play into the dining experience, not just the food.

If the Guide is purely critiquing the food, is that really enough? Because food today is much more than just what’s on the plate, however pretty the plate may be.

 

The cost of creativity

Chefs are inherently creative individuals. They want to cook and create the perfect menu that represents them, their tastes and their culture. Holding back a creative person is like locking a cheetah in a cage. It doesn’t want to be there, it’s not going to be happy, and the moment it gets out, you know it’s going to run.

The constant pressure of inspection causes even longer hours and even greater expectations in an industry that’s already full of long hours and great expectations. And these hours and expectations often occur at the detriment of profit, with margins often said to be lower at Michelin-focussed restaurants.

But, is that why chefs and consumers are turning their backs on the Guide? Or is it because the world of reviews has changed?

 

Reviews beyond the Guide

The Michelin Guide has been around for an astonishing 118 years. But today, there’s a world of reviews beyond the guide.

Bloggers, journalists, TV critics and review aggregator websites such as TripAdvisor have changed the face of reviewing. The Guide sits at the top, but for the average customer, why would they listen to a Guide that’s criteria for success is a secret, when they could just see genuine peer-reviews?

Restaurant A has a star, but the last 20 people that visited had a dreadful experience. Meanwhile, Restaurant B is star-less, but has page after page of flawless reviews. Where would you eat tomorrow?

We live in a society where everyone is now a critic, and everyone has a platform to share comments, pictures and reviews. This happens every day, not just once a year, making the Guide essentially behind the times as soon as it’s released.

 

Who is the Guide really for?

This begs the question, who is the Guide really for? Is it for chefs or for consumers?

Consumers undoubtedly want to enjoy the best cuisine and cooking possible and the idea of eating at a Michelin-starred restaurant still has a great appeal. It has pulling power, but it’s no longer the only factor a consumer looks at.

For chefs, winning a star is still one of the highest culinary accolades out there. It can change a career in a heartbeat. But, as we’ve seen, retaining a star is often a step too far for many creative chefs. It limits them and stifles creativity; two things that a lot of chefs won’t enjoy very much.

At the end of the day, the Michelin Guide isn’t perfect. But, it still matters a great deal to chefs and consumers alike. As Adam Coghlan, Eater London Editor, puts it: “Like driving a car on a treadmill, Michelin appear to be moving forward all the time, but really, they’re standing still. The thing is — they’re still driving the car.”

One thing’s for sure. We’ll still be watching to see the updated list, because today it still is the pinnacle. The question is, how long will that last? And will we see any restaurants ask for their star to be removed in the same week the Guide’s released?

 

Insights & Trends

New School Food Standards: turning regulation into opportunity 

September 2026

by Fiona Hamilton, director of strategic growth 

England’s school food landscape is entering a significant period of change. Proposed new School Food Standards are set to raise nutritional expectations, tighten controls on HFSS foods and introduce greater emphasis on compliance and enforcement. 

The potential impact  

For food and drink suppliers, the important question should be: what will schools need from us to make the new rules work? 

Operators are set to face a difficult balancing act; managing healthier options, budget constraints, portion and weight requirements, staffing pressures, allergens and operational complexity – all while still serving food pupils actually want to eat. 

As one school cook puts it: 

“It can be difficult when you’re trying to balance healthier food, tight budgets and all the different rules we have to follow – it’s an added layer to an already complex situation.” 

Can schools make new standards work? 

The sector believes they can – but previous experience shows the commercial risks of getting implementation wrong. 

Tracey Smith, CEO, Schools & Universities, Sodexo UK & Ireland, says: 

“Last time the standards changed it was a fundamental shift in the whole feeding of pupils… we all thought we wouldn’t get through it… but it was the right thing to do.” 

For Luke Consiglio, founder and CEO of education caterer, The Pantry, the impact was more challenging: 

“We saw a decrease in meal uptake, we saw an increase in food costs… I just don’t believe there’s been enough work done underneath that headline.” 

Meg Hughes, director of nutrition and sustainability at Compass Education, experienced a similar issue during a pilot: 

“We had a loss of sales of over 50% in the secondary school that did the pilot… It cost us a lot of money to do that pilot for six weeks.” 

And Deborah Batchelor, managing director and owner of education caterer Stir Food highlights the fundamental commercial measure: 

“If we go too far with the restrictions, we’re actually going to turn pupils away, because the measure of our success is uptake.” 

For suppliers, the challenge is to help caterers meet the standards without adding cost or complexity – or compromising what pupils actually want to eat. 

The opportunity 

The new standards create a clear opportunity for suppliers to think beyond the product and start solving the problems around it. 

Operators want healthier, practical solutions that work in the reality of a school kitchen – from product formats and pack sizes to allergen information, menu inspiration and operational support. 

A school cook’s wish list is revealing: 

“I’d like suppliers to make things easier for us by providing clear allergen and weight information, smaller pack sizes, more delivery options and more ideas for healthy dishes and snacks that we can actually use in schools.” 

And operators want suppliers to get closer to the reality of their businesses. 

Deborah Batchelor says: 

“Come and see what we’re actually doing… If you can reduce allergens, we will be able to choose more of it.” 

For Tracey Smith, collaboration is key: 

“How can we all collaboratively work together to look at how we can reduce that plate cost? … how can we think together using our insight and our data?” 

What this means for suppliers 

The strongest suppliers in education will be those that understand the challenges behind the standards and build their proposition around them. 

That could mean healthier products that don’t compromise taste or uptake, clearer information that makes compliance easier, formats and pack sizes designed around real school-kitchen constraints, or practical menu inspiration that helps turn compliant ingredients into food children want to eat. 

It also means getting closer to operators and understanding the problems they are actually trying to solve. 

This is where the commercial opportunity lies 

At William Murray, we help food and drink businesses turn customer insight into commercial advantage – understanding what buyers and operators need, translating those needs into stronger propositions, and creating the content, campaigns and engagement that take those propositions to market. 

The proposed new School Food Standards are a regulatory change. But also a market signal.  

The suppliers that understand this shift – and use it to solve real operator problems – will be better placed not just to support schools, but to build stronger propositions and unlock growth in education. 

Get set for success 

The standards are changing. Is your proposition ready? Let’s talk. Contact Anita Murray. 

— 

Quotes gathered from 1:1 interview with a secondary school catering manager and the Arena Feeding the Future: Rethinking Catering in Education event  

 

 

Insights & Trends

The impact of relationships in hospitality

July 2026

By Mimi Whelan, consultant, William Murray

Relationships are at the heart of hospitality, shaping careers, businesses and the guest experiences that keep people coming back. That was certainly my biggest takeaway from Arena’s latest Networking Event, where members came together to hear an inspiring panel of industry leaders share the personal and professional relationships that have helped shape their success. 

Hosted by our very own Chris Dines, commercial director of William Murray PR & Marketing, the discussion brought together GianMarco Carlà, chief operating officer at Big Mamma Group, Michael Andersen, chief commercial officer at Sysco GB, and Joycelyn Neve, founder and managing director of Seafood Pub Company, for an honest and engaging conversation covering leadership, innovation, career development and the future of hospitality. 

Building relationships that last 

What stood out most throughout the discussion was the shared belief that people are hospitality’s greatest asset. Whether it’s leading teams, working with suppliers or creating memorable guest experiences, the panel agreed that meaningful relationships are the foundation of long-term success. 

I was particularly struck by the emphasis placed on creating workplace cultures built on trust, openness and honest communication. The panellists spoke about the importance of surrounding yourself with people who challenge your thinking, offer different perspectives and help you continue learning throughout your career. 

Embracing innovation while staying people-first 

Innovation was another recurring theme, with the panel discussing how businesses are evolving to meet changing customer expectations. Michael Andersen shared how suppliers are helping operators through product innovation, simplified kitchen solutions and technology that improves efficiency without compromising quality. 

Artificial intelligence naturally formed part of the conversation too. While the opportunities are significant – from streamlining recruitment and analysing customer data to improving guest communications – the panel was unanimous that technology should enhance, not replace, the human side of hospitality. Instead, it should give people more time to build stronger relationships and deliver exceptional guest experiences. 

Saying yes to opportunity 

One of the most inspiring parts of the discussion was hearing each panellist reflect on their own career journey. They spoke openly about the opportunities they had embraced, the setbacks they had faced and the lessons they had learned along the way. 

A message that really resonated with me was the importance of saying “yes”. Confidence doesn’t appear overnight – it grows through experience, taking calculated risks and being willing to step outside your comfort zone. The panel reminded us that careers are rarely linear, and that some of the greatest opportunities come from embracing the unexpected. 

Leadership, culture and confidence 

Leadership was another key theme, with every panellist highlighting the importance of investing in people. Whether leading a single venue or an international restaurant group, they all shared the view that the best leaders create environments where people feel trusted, supported and empowered to succeed. 

The conversation around confidence and self-doubt was refreshingly honest. The panellists admitted that self-doubt never truly disappears – even at the most senior levels – and encouraged attendees not to wait until they feel completely ready before pursuing new opportunities. Instead, they shared practical ways to build resilience, from leaning on trusted mentors to writing down personal goals and asking yourself, “What’s the worst that could happen?” 

The power of networking 

It was fitting that networking itself became a key topic of conversation. Rather than seeing networking as simply collecting business cards, the panel encouraged attendees to focus on building genuine relationships through curiosity, listening and offering support to others long before it’s ever needed. 

The audience Q&A brought many of these themes together, with discussions around developing future leaders, giving constructive feedback, overcoming imposter syndrome and learning from mistakes. Throughout the afternoon, one message remained clear: successful careers aren’t built by having all the answers, but by staying curious, embracing opportunities and surrounding yourself with people who help you grow. 

A huge thank you to our very own Chris Dines for expertly hosting such an insightful discussion, and to GianMarco Carlà, Michael Andersen and Joycelyn Neve for sharing their experiences with such openness and honesty. Thank you also to everyone who joined and contributed to another fantastic Arena Networking Event. 

As hospitality continues to evolve, events like these provide an invaluable opportunity to connect, learn and share experiences. As one panellist perfectly summed up and a quote I will take with me into my career: “Sometimes not knowing what to be afraid of is a powerful thing.”